The Golden Route is probably best known for the bustle of Tokyo and the culture of Kyoto. It gives you the classic taste of Japan and submerses you into its rich heritage. However, there is one part of the Golden Route which is often left out by the busy traveller, namely Hakone. This is a part famous for its hot springs and views of Mt. Fuji, as well as the rich colours which shine from the foliage here throughout the year. 2 nights in Hakone is probably the ideal amount of time for your first venture here and it will likely leave you longing to return.
So, whether you want to relax in an onsen or simply want to see a place reminiscent of those villages featuring in Studio Ghibli films, Hakone could be just what you are after. Here is your quick guide to spending 2 nights in Hakone – I hope that you enjoy it.
2 Nights in Hakone | Your Ultimate Guide
Table of Contents
What to Plan Ahead
Let’s begin our Ultimate Guide by going over the must-know information, namely where to stay and how to get to Hakone. I’ll then go into the itinerary section below.
Getting to Hakone
Hakone is incredibly easy to get to. If you’re coming from Kyoto, I’d personally recommend taking the Shinkansen and stopping at the small town of Odawara. There isn’t a lot here to be honest, but there are plenty of shuttles which then take you into Hakone and nearby towns. These transfers run incredibly regularly and you’ll find that there are staff who help guide you to the best bus.
If you’re coming from Tokyo, you could still take the Shinkansen, but it isn’t actually the best route. Of course, it is simple, but other, slower trains take you along the scenic routes of Japan and show off otherwise-inaccessible landscapes. I’d recommend the Odakyu Romance Car, a Limited Express train which runs from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto. What makes this train amazing is that it only takes 90 minutes and gives you some incredible views of the mountain scenery.
Tip: For Limited Express travel you’ll need to purchase both the fare and reserve a seat. This option is more expensive than slower trains (¥2400 compared to ¥1200), but gets you there half an hour more quickly). However, if you purchase the Hakone Free Pass (see below), you can reduce the fare to half on Express trains – you’ll only need the seat reservation.
If you’re staying in Gora – probably the most popular area in Hakone, you’ll need to take another train. From Hakone-Yumote, you’ll then need to take the Hakone Tozan Railway up to Gora Station. This is actually one of Japan’s oldest railways and is also one of the most scenic. You’ll pass through the incredible mountainous scenery and, in June and July, be surrounded by hydrangeas. You’ll then arrive at Gora Station, which is where you’ll catch a taxi to your hotel.
Hakone Free Pass
One thing I’d heavily recommend buying is the Hakone Free Pass. In fact, I’d almost go as far as to say it is a must. The pass itself costs ¥7500 (around £33), which seems steep at first, but when you consider it includes a round-trip from Tokyo to Hakone and all public transport, it is a steal. This is particularly important if you want to take the ropeways around Hakone as, otherwise, you’ll basically be paying the same amount anyway.
The Hakone Free Pass gives you a truly huge discount if you want to complete the Hakone Loop, which is one of the main reasons to go. If you are just wanting to relax in an onsen though it will be cheaper just to purchase train tickets.
Where to Stay in Hakone
The area of Hakone is made up of lots of different neighbourhoods. Each one has their own quirks and features, and are ideal for different kinds of travellers. We decided to stay in Hakone Gora. We found that this was easy to get to and was in an ideal location to explore and relax. There are lots of ryokan to choose from so you can get that authentic Japanese experience.
Here are the different neighbourhoods in Hakone. I’ve included the key features and what to know about them to help you choose.
| Area of Hakone | Key Features |
Hakone-Yumoto | Great for day-trippers due to the train station. There are plenty of shops to keep you busy. Expect more onsen hotels over ryokan. |
Miyanoshita | An onsen resort town which has a rich history. It is relatively quiet and is home to the famous Fujiya Hotel. This classic lakeside town vibes and feels very traditional. Don’t expect many tourist-based accommodation. |
Gora | Home to most of the ryokans and open-air baths. It is relatively peaceful and stylish, but arguably the most touristy. |
Sengokuhara | A much quieter part of Hakone, famous for its fields of pampas grass. It is relatively hard to get to and from, but less touristy. |
Motohakone | Can give you a peaceful escape in Hakone and is just on the banks of Lake Ashi. However, similarly to Sengokuhara it is difficult to go exploring from. It is also quite pricey. |
Our time in Gora was really nice, though it maybe didn’t feel as traditional as we had hoped outside of our accommodation. By that I mean that the area was very much geared-towards tourists, but perhaps that is to be expected. On the plus side though it was incredibly well-connected and we found it easy enough to get around.
Itinerary
This itinerary isn’t as detailed as my other posts, mostly because Hakone is basically designed for relaxing. Don’t get me wrong, there are of course things to see, but you can’t come here without spending a good amount of time in an onsen or immersing yourself in nature. One of my favourite memories here is actually just going for a morning walk around Hakone Gora. There wasn’t exactly anything in particular to see, but the crisp morning air along with the autumn leaves was something extraordinary.
I’ve written the itinerary from the perspective of somebody arriving from Kyoto. With this, I’ll assume that you’ll arrive in Gora later in the morning or early afternoon.
Day 1
From Kyoto, you’ll likely arrive in Hakone at around midday or early afternoon. Once you’ve dropped off your bag, I’d recommend heading to Gora. Start off at Gora station and then take the cablecar (or funicular) up to Gora Park. This is a hidden oasis within the town and is built in the French-style. Gora is built on a hill and the park features lovely views across the valley. You’ll also find fountains, flowerbeds and even a small tea house.
Tip: If you are here early November, this is the ideal spot to see the autumn leaves.
After you have seen Gora Park, go back to the station. Catch the local Hakone Tozen train and ride it for one stop to Chokoku-no-Muri. Nearby here is the famous Hakone Open-Air Museum, one of Japan’s most unique and interesting art spaces. It is quite a large space, with around 1,000 sculptures across 17 acres to explore. Each sculpture is unique and there are some from incredibly famous artists including an entire pavilion dedicated to the work of (and housing it, for that matter) Picasso.
Tip: Entrance for the Open Air Museum is cheaper if you buy it online (¥1800 compared to ¥2000 at the door).
In the evening, head back to your ryokan and soak up in an onsen, before enjoying a traditional Japanese dinner.
Day 2
For day 2, we’re going exploring! Hakone has some of the best sights in all of Japan. Whilst it is of course famous for seeing Fuji (this particular volcano is rather elusive!), you can also enjoy other volcanic landscapes here. In fact, this is the home of the famous black eggs.
Now, as a forewarning, we’ll be following the Hakone Round Course (or Hakone Loop), which combines multiple ways of transport. All of these though are included in the Hakone Free Pass, which I’ve mentioned above. If you haven’t bought one yet, you can do so at Gora Station and you can just buy the Local Pass.
Tip: Try to do this as early as possible – this is the main route in Hakone and it gets incredibly busy. An early morning beats the tourists!
Stop 1: Owakudani Valley
Your first leg of the journey is arguably the most fun and iconic. Take the cable car up from Gora Station and ride it right to the top to Sounzan. At this station, you can then transfer to the Hakone Ropeway, which is probably the highlight of the trip. The ropeway takes you across the volcanic landscape of Owakudani and you’ll get the best view of this area.
I should say though that this route is not for everyone. Firstly, there are obviously heights, and the air stinks of sulphur (like any volcanic area). If you don’t fancy taking the ropeway, regular buses run from Sounzan to Owakudani. Be warned though that the traffic can be quite heavy here.
At the top of Owakudani, you’ll be able to look out at the volcanic landscape. You’ll see vibrant yellow pools of sulphuric acid, along with dead trees and steam rising from vents. It is incredibly cool and unique. As I said before, you can also try a black egg here. Legends say that one of these adds 7 years to your life…
If the weather is on your side, you may be able to see Mount Fuji from here. If not, you can get the next best thing and purchase Mount Fuji biscuits from the nearby shop; they’re seriously good.
Stop 2: Lake Ashi (Ashinoko)
From Owakundani, take the ropeway down to your next stop; Togendai. This is the departure point for the famous Hakone Sightseeing Cruise across Lake Ashi. What makes it so amazing is that it is genuinely done on board a pirate ship. That’s right, you’ll set sail on an old-looking boat, which has to be one of the coolest cruises in the world.
I love lake cruises anywhere, but Lake Ashi is special. Why? Because it is surrounded by trees and mountains, which genuinely look magical in the autumn. I can only imagine what 2 nights in Hakone would look like during cherry blossom season. If you’re really lucky, you’ll again see Fuji.
Another thing to look out for is the torii gate of the Hakone Shrine which stands in the water. It is one of Japan’s most photographed landmarks. We’re going to get a closer look…
Stop 3: Hakone Shrine
Disembark your cruise at Moto-Hakone. This is one of the main tourist hotspots of the area, but is a must-see whilst here. Take the path along the lakeside to reach the Hakone Shrine. It is within a beautiful cedar forest and sit on top of a hill. Like other Shinto shrines, you’ll see those beautiful stone lanterns which line the path up to the main torii gates.
Once you’ve explored and seen the shrine to your heart’s content, head back into Moto-Hakone. Similarly to European lakeside towns, you’ll find different cafés and stands which line the lakeside path. It is the ideal spot to enjoy some lunch or a well-deserved ice cream.
To get back to Gora, I’d recommend either the bus or train. There isn’t too big a difference in the time it will take you. Once you’re back in your accommodation, again, head to the onsen!
Day 3
Before you end your 2 nights in Hakone, I’d recommend taking it slow and enjoying the scenery. Like I said above, our highlight was that early morning walk we did around Gora; we really appreciated just how peaceful the area was.
Of course, you could use this time to stop at any museum or garden which you didn’t explore on your first day. However, I think it is best spent either walking or enjoying a matcha in the sun.
It will soon be time to catch your train back through the mountains and back to your next destination which, if you’re following my 2 Weeks in Japan | The Ultimate Guide for First-Time Visitors, will be Tokyo.
General Guidance and FAQs
Are 2 nights in Hakone Enough?
Yes – 2 nights in Hakone is ideal. Unless you have more than 2 weeks in Japan, I’d honestly say that you won’t need more than this. I would add that Hakone should be on everyone’s list. Travelling by train in Japan is a really busy itinerary and you’ll need some time to relax. Trust me.
When is the Best Time to Visit Hakone?
I’d personally narrow this down to two options; April and late October / early November. With the former, it is obvious cherry blossom season and this is a bucket list experience for many travellers. I would say though that this is peak tourist season and the Hakone Loop will not be as nice. In the autumn though you can enjoy the colourful leaves and fewer crowds. It is also usually cheaper.
Onsen Etiquette
Onsens can be a bit of a cultural shock for many westerners. Firstly, you need to ensure that you wash before entering the onsen and recognise that there are no swimsuits allowed. Similarly to public transport and shrines, talking is generally frowned upon and it should be a quiet place to reflect.
Final Thoughts | 2 Nights in Hakone
2 nights in Hakone is that little bit of serenity you need after exploring Kyoto or Tokyo. It is as close to that zen mindset as you can get and gives you time to really relax and reflect upon your time in Japan. We absolutely loved our time here and were really happy that we had booked it. I hope that you found this guide helpful but, if you have any questions, please let me know. I always love hearing from you.
*cover image: stocksy.com
